Tag Archives: Infinity

It Came from the Lightbox: Nomads & Mercenaries

I painted up a couple of random Nomads & Mercenaries to fill out some options.

Lupe Balboa, obviously.

I needed a second Missile Launcher and Sniper Rifle so I have better options when linking Alguaciles.  Also, a fifth Jaguar when running Corregidor.

Khal Drogo to be my third Yuan Yuan (first non-Fat Yuan Yuan)

This is my Raoul Spector conversion: mostly a Bashi Bazouk, with a few bits from a Hellcat to make it feel more like a Nomad.  He’ll also fill in as a Yuan Yuan if it ever makes sense for me to run four Yuan Yuans.

A Krakot Renegade.  These guys seem really useful, so it’s good I’ve got one painted up.

I also painted up a Xenotech I’m pretty happy with, but he’s got to be held back for the Mayacast thing.

It Came from the Lightbox: ISS

I painted up almost the entire ISS Sectorial in a couple of months leading into NOVA.  Right now, I think I have the whole sectorial painted (except for the named bounty hunters and a CSU, I think?).

Infinity – Line of Fire

The same conversation has come up on WGC Infinity at least three times in the past month.  It’s apparently a squirrelier subject than it should be.  I get it: the first time it came up, I thought, “That’s wrong and BS!” until the rule was pointed out to me and now I get it.

I don’t especially like the rule, but the rule is the rule, and it’s unambiguous.

Specifically, there are several scenarios win which Model A might be in Model B’s front arc, but Model B cannot draw LoF to Model A from their front arc due to terrain.

This boils down to positioning, but gets trickier when it comes to elevation or, more easily, Super-Jump, where a player can say, “I’m Jumping just high enough to only draw LoF to the back half of your volume.”

This really seems to drive people over a cliff.  Uncharitable character judgments are being made, posturing about how they’d never play someone again, etc… and I think it’s unreasonable: one of the great things about Infinity is there isn’t really RAI, just RAW.  That RAW might be a little tortured, but it’s rarely ambiguous.

It’s frustrating that it’s come up so many times, and people get really worked up over it, so I threw together some diagrams that might help.  It won’t, but I can hope.

The key rule to this is from the first FAQ on the Line of Fire entry: “In summary: For a miniature can ARO must be within its 180˚ front half base and be able to draw the LoF from those 180˚.”

The standard move in Infinity is to place your model facing directly at the wall in front of them, perfectly parallel to it: that way, if someone comes around either side, they’ll be in their front arc.  This means that the back half of the volume of the silhouette is exposed from above.

If the model rotate’s 90˚, they can cover one direction and be protected from above… but leave the other direction exposed. I don’t think that’s a bad thing: the idea of a perfect defense doesn’t feel right in Infinity.  You have to make choices, take risks.

It Came from the Lightbox – ALEPH

I painted up the better part of the OSSS starter from Operation Coldfront in the final days before NOVA so that I’d have coverage for the ALEPH support options for the Imperial Service.  Not the whole thing, just the Dakini and Garuda (which I’d had for a bit) and the Shukra to stand in as a Sophotect.

Somehow, even though I got these things in the lightbox, I never got around to posting them here.

I painted these mostly with airbrush paints brushed on.  The GW airbrush paints have great coverage with great flow.  I also tried to push up the contrast on these with the black metallic parts.  I don’t know that it was super-effective, but it’s progress.

 

It Came from the Lightbox: McMurrough & St Isaac

I’ve been working on stuff, just not photographing it.  Had to pull the lightbox yesterday out to demo how to use it, so I got the chance to photograph a couple of the things I’ve done in the last few weeks that came out pretty well.

McMurrough came out pretty well.  In retrospect, I wish I’d pushed the kilt farther (it wasn’t challenging at all).  The sword isn’t what I’d like it to be, but it was a learning experience. I’m sick of the half-assed treatment I give weapons in Infinity, and this is a step in the right direction.

I’m painting Dark Age, I guess.  I’m actually pretty happy with how these came out, even though I’m frustrated by the low-quality of the metal in the metal figures and improved material but drastically worse casts of the plastic versions that came in the starter.

It Came from the Lightbox – Nomads & StarCo

It’s been a while since I had the lightbox out, so while photographing the first of my Yu Jing, I took the chance to photograph some of the random figures I’ve painted since the last time I had it out.

Nothing fancy: just some assorted Nomads and models used by StarCo, with results that range from “satisfying” to “well, at least they’re painted.”








It Came from the Lightbox – Yu Jing

I painted up most of the Yu Jing side of Red Veil (I pushed off the Ninja, so it’s effectively just the Yu Jing starter box).

The effort took me, I think, just about a week.  There are some things I’d prefer to have done better: I’m still not sure how I feel about the black cloth, nor about how to differentiate the black cloth from the black hair, and I’m still only in the earliest of stages of figuring out how I can paint Asian flesh… but it’s a start.

I’m happy with the yellow-on-black, though: I’m starting ISS in our local Infinity league, and since they’re on the baddie side of the scale, I like the idea of them looking like wasps.  That coloration is probably going to continue to guide my color choices for Yu Jing going forward.  Of course, given that I’m running ISS in the league, I get to use one (1) of these figures (the Hsien).












On Making MetaChemistry or Booty Tokens

I posted about making Tokens a couple of weeks back: the ultimate motivator for that was someone posting about making a bunch of custom Metachemistry tokens for their Morlocks (I wish I could find the post, but I can’t).

They were cool.

But.  There are 17 different options across the two MetaChemistry charts (12 & 5, respectively), and buddy Morlocks are AVA Total.  If you want to do the same thing for Booty, you’re looking at 35 different options across the two Booty charts (17 & 18, respectively).

That’s too many flipping tokens to cart around for one model, never mind something I might take 2 or more of.

Solution (and maybe reference that Token post if you need to):

  1. Take a sheet of paper.  Laminate it (Laminators are, like, $20 on Amazon).
  2. Use your 1″ craft circle punch to punch out a few circles.
  3. Stick on a clear bottlecap sticker so you can actually pick the token up.
  4. When you make your MetaChemistry or Booty roll, use a wet-erase marker to scribble what the result is on the laminated token.
  5. Done.

This way, instead of having to keep 85 tokens in your token case because you’re running a handful of Morlocks, you just need to keep the 5.

If you’re really sassy, actually make tokens that say “Booty” and “MetaChemistry” on the one side, laminate that, and cover the fancy side with the bottlecap sticker and write on the backside of it.

Huzzah Hobbies Inaugural Infinity Tournament

About a month ago, I ran an ITS event at my FLGS, Huzzah Hobbies.  I’ve been meaning to post about it for a while, but vacation, work, and trying to get the post perfect have all conspired against that… so instead, I’ll shoot for good enough.

What Worked Well

Just about everything.

Turnout was off the charts.  It was enormous.  We had 27 players. Folks came down Maryland.  Folks came down from Pennsylvania.  A couple of folks came from Michigan.  I’m fairly confident that it qualified as a Dire States event: that’s incredible for a first tournament.

Prize support was off the charts.  Black Maria Designs gave us prize support and a thing for everyone who showed up.  Black Sheep Industries gave us prize support. Warsenal cut us a deal on prize support.  The Michigan GT had Data Tracker tokens for everyone who showed up. Myomer had a nice gift for the Wooden Spoon prize. Many, many people contributed stuff for the prize pool.  There was enough stuff that Everyone Got Something, with stuff left over to go into the pool for next time.

I attribute most of that to BMinusCPlus, who did an incredible job of hustling both attendees and vendors for support.  If he hadn’t been involved, we’d have had the quiet 8 person turnout I’d expected.

What Didn’t Work Well

There was a scheduling conflict that resulted in us losing about a quarter of our table space.  I knew about this, and had been told there’d be no impact, but failed to do the groundwork to confirm that. In the end, everything worked out Just Fine, but there was a period there where it wasn’t clear that things would work out.  In the end, we had a couple of tables smushed together, and everything got along OK.  Had I done that groundwork, I’d have likely dialed back on the event size from 32 to 24.

For next time, a couple of items: I don’t think the scheduling conflict will happen again.  If it does, I have a better understanding of the remaining capacity so I can adjust the event size accordingly.  Finally, it was a good reminder to trust, but verify.

I also ran a poll of players after the fact and the consensus was that smushing tables together: not great but not the dramatic inconvenience we expected it to be.  That data point will also help in planning better next time, as well.

What Can Be Done Better

Spirit of Infinity was scored 1-5, per player, per round.   It’s not my prize to give, but I’d tweak a couple of things about how it’s scored. Only one player can get your top score. We had some folks giving out top scores like candy, and we had another withhold a top score (thinking they’d only get one) in case they played a certain other player they expected to have a great game with.  This means I’d collect those scores at the end of the day, not round-to-round.

It was important to me to have an appearance award; we went with Player’s Choice. I kind of hate Player’s Choice because it’s lazy, and doesn’t necessarily result in the best painted army winning. At the same time: it’s doesn’t require much work (and who has time for more work when running an event?), and abdicates the responsibility for who should win it to the players.  Regardless, I’d decided to do Player’s Choice and then stopped thinking about it.  Separate score sheets might have made things easier, and no accommodation was actually made to do the review: hadn’t scheduled it, hadn’t prepped player numbers to go by armies, etc.  Player’s Choice doesn’t need much planning, but it needed more than it got.  Next time, it’ll get it

On Making Tokens

Dark Age doesn’t require as many tokens as Infinity does, but it does require kind of a lot of them.  The nicest ones I’ve seen come from Terracutter, in Russia. I’ve yet to really get my money’s worth out of my Dark Age figures, if you know what I mean, so I’m not about to take on those shipping costs.

Not a problem: I created my own with just a little work. (Nothing here is likely new if you play Infinity but… you never know.)

Download my Prevailer Token sheet.

Items Needed:

I play Infinity, and in addition to a number of manufacturers (my preferred is Warsenal) who make tokens that range from OK to gorgeous, the classic go-to is the Infinity Marker Sheet Creator.  You select the tokens you need, the size you need them in, and the size paper you’ll be printing (A4 != letter), click Submit, and it spits out a PDF you can print and cut the tokens out of.  (So far as I know it’s kept quietly up-to-date; it’s got logos for NA2 and Druze Bayram.)

While the IMSC doesn’t generate tokens for anything non-Infinity: I have access to Visio.  Generate a bunch of 25mm circles, fill them with the content you want, and print them out, and you’re in the same spot.  (As I typed this up, I realized that I need to give this a try with LibreOffice Draw, just to see it work.  I’d be surprised if it didn’t.)

To do this yourself:

  • Drag in a 25mm or 1″ circle.
  • Give it a 1pt line around the end.
  • Fill it Solid or Gradient with whatever colors that make you happy.
  • Add a Text element if you want text. Make it white, so you can see it on the color fill of your circle.  Give it a drop shadow; why not?  Drag it into the circle and arrange to taste.
  • Go to Game-Icons.net, look around for an appropriate Icon.
  • Download it white on transparent background.
  • Drag it into the Visio.  Give it a drop shadow so it stands out and you can find it against the white background. Resize and arrange it to taste in the circle.
  • Group ’em if you want.
  • Repeat, with variations until you’ve got all the tokens you need created.
  • Align those suckers. Have some self-respect.

It’ll look like this:

PROTIP: if you’re gonna share things that use those icons around, don’t forget there’s a CC license you need to reference.

Have your tokens printed at Kinko’s in color at the highest quality and on a heavy stock paper.  You can print them at home (I did), but the colors simply won’t be as vibrant.  Also, if you print them on just regular paper, the punch will have trouble cleanly punching through the thin paper and you’ll end up with mangled paper edges that look awful; to mitigate this, you’ll have to punch through your token AND an index card at the same time.  That’s a pain.

Buy a craft circle punch.  Get a 1″ punch like this one for 25mm/1″ tokens.  If you need 40mm tokens, for whatever reason, get a 1.5″ punch like this one: the difference between 40mm and 1.5″ is more significant than the difference between 25mm and 1″, but it’s Close Enough.

Cut your sheet into strips so you can get the punch lined up, and punch out your tokens.

Now, having punched out your tokens, you’ve got a choice to make:

Option 1: use some clear 1″ bottlecap jewelry stickers like these, and you’re done.  These run 200 of them for less than $10, so this is very inexpensive.  Just peel the sticker off the sheet, press it and your token together, and that’s it.  They make these in 1.5″, too, if you want to do some larger tokens, but they’re less inexpensive.

Option 2: use some clear, 1″ acrylic disks like these (I use 1/8″ thick, instead of 1/16″).  (If you shop with Soto, the coupon code TNK15OFF should be good for a 15% discount.) Brush Mod Podge onto the back of the disk, stick your paper token printed side against the glue, and smooth it out so there’s very little glue between the paper and the disk.  If you want, brush some thinned Mod Podge against the back of the token. Once everything’s dry, scratch off or carefully take a little rubbing alchohol to the front of the token where you’ve clumsily gotten glue fingerprints on it.

I’ve done both ways.  In general, I prefer the acrylic disks.  I think they look nicer, and they’re much easier for me to handle.  Unfortunately, they also require quite a bit more work, and cost about 6.4x as much.  So: while I made my Infinity tokens with the acrylic disks, the Dark Age tokens I just knocked out got the sticker treatment.

Here’s a comparison photo:

  • Left – Punched out from an Infinity box, bottlecap sticker
  • Center – Printed out, clear acrylic disk
  • Right – Warsenal full-color acrylic token

So, maybe not as nice as the Warsenal tokens, but definitely good enough.