Tag Archives: Allegedly Helpful

Tracking Hobby Data

My first real professional software development gig was as a research assistant with the Texas Coastal Ocean Observation Network, a system of meteorological tracking stations up and down the Texas Gulf Coast that’s been collecting data since, in some places, 1989.  The system’s literally tracked how much water is under the Corpus Christi Harbor Bridge, every six minutes, for 20 years.  That’s a lot of detailed data.

TCOON’s done some really interesting stuff with that data.  They’ve got some incredibly accurate forecasting tools, for example.  The system’s greatest strength is its volume.

This is definitely a lesson that’s stuck with me over the years: heaps of information can tell you things.  Of course, the only way you get heaps of data is to start collecting it.


Tracking My Hobby Data

At the beginning of the year, I said that I’d be using the Lone Pilgrim Points Tracker to track my painting progress through the year… and I have.  However, rather than just keeping a running number in a sidebar that I increment occasionally, I dump all of that stuff in a spreadsheet.  There’s a link to it in the sidebar, but it’s certainly easy to miss.  So, allow me to direct your attention to:

The spreadsheet was negligibly easy to set up, and takes little to no effort to keep up to date.  (Zealot had suggested that the maintenance would be onerous.  So far, it has not been.)  If anything, I’ve found that logging work in the spreadsheet really communicates an immediate sense of accomplishment.  This was especially true with the way I tracked progress on my Daemon army.  I could literally see progress bars filling up.

It also helps me keep things in persepective.  I brought this up just about a month ago, when I had the same sort of moment Bill just had: “I feel like I’ve accomplished nothing.  Oh, wait… I’ve gotten a lot done!”

(I’m going to post some charts.  These are all driven by the Google Spreadsheet!)

Of course, even though I painted a ton of Skaven in July and August, it’s obvious that 2010 has been the Year of Khorne:

I’ve done a bit more than track my painting progress, though.  Since it was easy, I started tracking my performance in games.  Given my W/L/D record… I’d probably have a higher opinion of my ability if I hadn’t!

Ouch!

It also gives me some perspective on what I’m really playing:

I’m sure to revisit / repost these charts at the end of the year: I’ve only been tracking this stuff for about 10.5 months.


Room for Improvement

It’s not perfect, though.

One thing my Skaven have definitely shown me is that I like to convert some models. This system doesn’t account for any of that effort. If I convert a model and fail to get around to painting it (which is usually the case with me), it’s as if it never happened… never mind how much hobby time it actually consumed.

Assembling things isn’t a small undertaking, either. Sure, snapping together a Black Reach marine isn’t hard: but 30 of them add up. A more complete hobby system would reflect this sort of thing, as well.

Next year, I’ll have to account for this sort of thing.

Exactly how, though, I’m not sure: building a Stompa is somewhat more involved than building a Guardsman, though, and scratch-building a Khornate Daemonette (Khornette?) would be more involved than doing a weapon-swap on a Deathwing Terminator.  These differences are something I should track.

The Lone Pilgrim system only measures painting, and it does so in terms of size: a tank is more points than a marine.  The axis is different with conversion and assembly.  Maybe it makes sense to track conversion separate from assembly.  Maybe it doesn’t.  This is something I need to noodle on a bit.

Also, Lone Pilgrim isn’t perfect: it attaches the same value to dudes I paint in batches of 10 as it does to a single character who’s a centerpiece to my army.  Maybe that’s okay, maybe it isn’t.

Finally, I’ll need to add a field to scope hobby records to year.  Gaming records already include the date, but it’d be nice to see what months are my hobby-fertile ones and what months are dry.


Sharing is Caring

Once I’ve settled these things, I’m going to create an updated Hobby Tracker spreadsheet.  Clearly, I’m doing this for myself… but there’s no reason y’all can’t benefit from it, too.  I’ll post a blank copy of it and make it available for any and all to copy to their Google Docs accounts.

What do y’all think?  Do I fetishize information a little too much, or is this a healthy way to gain perspective about how I spent most of my leisure time?

Dawn Power Dissolver

A couple of weeks back, Scott posted a link to an article about stripping minis that mentioned Dawn Power Dissolver.  Ron posted something about using it a while back, too, but the article is what really motivated me to try it out.

I had a lot of trouble finding it locally.  Not sure why that is, because it seems like it’s the sort of thing easily available, but… no luck.  So, I bought the crap online.

I LOVE IT.

I’ve been using Simple Green, which certainly works, but I’ve never been super thrilled with it.

My test run was these three minis: a metal mini, a plastic mini and a metal mini with crud (which is what Simple Green always gives me).

I let it sit for just a couple of hours.  What was shocking was just the act of spraying the minis did some stripping.  That white spot on the pauldron was khaki.

After soaking for a couple of hours, I ran them under the sink and brushed them somewhat vigorously with a toothbrush.  Here’s the result.

Unbelievable.  The metal minis look new.  There’s a bit of crud on the plastic mini, but more soaking might fix that.

I’m totally sold on this stuff for stripping.

Malifaux Card – Lamination

One of the other Malifaux players in the area, Dan, has had all his stat cards laminated.

This is, in a word, genius.

Malifaux stat cards suck.  You use them to track damage so, like Warmachine cards, they need to live in plastic card sleeves.  Unlike Warmachine cards, though, they’re not single cards: they’re two cards wide and fold in half… with all of the special rules and things that get referenced on the inside.

After three sessions of Malifaux, the sleeve I’d been keeping Sonnia Criid’s card in has torn open… something that’s never happened to me with Warmachine (where I use the same card sleeves).

So, lamination is (again) genius.

I stopped by Kinko’s last night to laminate my cards.  Not too many Guild cards, but there are kind of a ton of Gremlin cards.  Although I could have maybe laid out my cards more efficiently, I don’t think I could have reduced the number of lamination sheets I ultimately needed to use.  The whole thing cost me < $12 and the frustration reduction will totally be worth it. Chris suggested that you’d get four cards per 8.5″x11″ sheet.  Necessity drove me to fit five on one sheet, with the pattern:

I did most of my cards in 11″x17″ sheets (8 per sheet in pretty lose formation).  What I couldn’t fit in those (5), I did in the single 8.5″x11″ sheet.   That means I probably could have 10 cards per 11″x17″ sheet (but would have been left with one I couldn’t fit).

The 11″x17″ sheets were just a hair over $4 each and the 8.5″x11″ was $2.50.  So, on a big sheet, you’re looking at 50¢ a card if you’re lazy and do 8, 40¢ if you fit 10.  On the smaller sheets, it’s 63¢ if you only do 4 cards, 50¢ if you do 5.  So, try to do as many as possible at a time and cram them onto the big sheets.

Miniature Transport and Storage

A friend of Chris’ asked me about how I go about magnetizing my miniatures for transport.  Rather than just e-mail it to him, I figured I’d dump it here.  You never know who might find this helpful.

A lot of people I know store and transport their minis this way, which is why I started doing it.  At first, I kept my minis in Sabol trays, but they’re 1) not inexpensive, 2) inflexible once you’ve plucked out the foam and, most significantly (for me, at least) 3) they take up waaay too much space.  Now, I store almost all of my minis this way.  There are some drawbacks, however, that I’ll get into.

What I’m Talking About

Basically, I take cheap plastic drawers, glue magnetic sheets to the bottom of it.  Then, I glue washers to the bases of my minis.

The magnetic sheet holds the washer pretty well.  Then, instead of carrying around bags of foam trays, I just carry around a small stack of drawers.

What I Use

Drawers

Right now, I’ve got two kinds of drawers: Office Depot drawers and Sterilite drawers.

I started with the Sterilite drawers.  I like them, because they’re wide (something like 14″x14″) and they’ve got lids, which keeps dust off of whatever’s inside and provides a little piece of mind.  If things go horribly wrong, the lids will keep everything inside, right?

I moved to the Office Depot drawers for a few reasons.  They’re cheaper, for one.  You can buy just a few or a lot, depending on your needs.  More significantly, they’re variable height: there are shallow drawers and deep drawers.  This is key.  I had a great deal of difficulty storing anything taller than a regular infantry model in the Sterilite drawers, as they’re only a few inches deep.  The shallow Office Depot drawers are significantly deeper, and the deep ones provide enough height for damn near anything.  I can fit all of my non-Bloodthirster, non-Soul Grinder daemon models  (pushing up against 2,000 points’ worth) in one shallow and one deep drawer.

What specific brand drawers you use doesn’t matter in the slightest.  The key is to make sure you have enough vertical space for your minis.  It’s annoying to have to figure out another way to store your dreadnoughts ’cause they’re too tall for the drawers all your other Dark Angels live in.

Magnets

I cannot stress this enough: unless you want your minis to be too busy humping each others’ legs to visit destruction on your foes, you need to magnetize the drawers and not the minis.  Rare Earth magnets are strong, people.

I buy packs of business card magnets from the office supply store.  One side is adhesive, the other magnetic.  I stick ’em to the bottom of the drawer.  It’s that simple.

I will note that Wargame Accessories, the company that cuts the steel rectangular and square bits for gluing to the bottom of your Fantasy minis sells magnetic sheets.  I’m too lazy this morning to figure out which is more cost-effective (buying business card magnets vs. magnetic sheets), but the magnetic pull of the sheets is much stronger than that of the business card magnets.  Harry, another IFL member, has convinced me of this.

Metal Bits

To get the minis to stick to the magnets, you’ve got to glue metal stuff to the bottom of them.

For square/rectangular bases, you need either square/rectangular bits like the ones Wargame Accessories sell or actual magnetic bases like the ones Gale Force 9 sells.  I (and, as far as I can tell, everyone else locally) use the former.

For round bases, life is easier: washers.  1″ washers for 25mm bases, 1.5″ washers for 40mm bases.

At first, I used just plain ol’ whatever washers from Home Depot but, when I started playing War of the Ring, I moved to fender washers in hopes of actually fitting them in the movement trays.  That didn’t follow through, but I still prefer the fender washers: they’ve got more surface area (which I think makes for a better hold against the magnet), are thinner (so they’re less noticable) and are more precise (as in, they’re more likely to be the size they say they are).

Here’s a comparison: the Haradrim is on a fender washer, the Dark Angel is on a whatever washer.

What’s nice is that the washer also provides some weight at the bottom of the base.  That gives plastic minis a better heft and makes everything more stable.

For larger models, with 60mm bases, you’re going to have trouble finding a big enough washer.  So, for these, I use Gale Force 9’s rubber steel.  I just glue the base to the steel, and cut it to shape.

Issues

This isn’t a perfect system, and I really need to call out where it fails.

It does a poor job with vehicles, or really anything that doesn’t have a base you can glue a metal thing to.  I always end up keeping and transporting my vehicles in Sabol foam trays.  You could do rare earth magnets business card magnets on the bottom of the vehicles, but I’ve been pretty unimpressed with the results.  It’s just easier to keep them in the foam.

It can’t handle top-heavy models.  I transport my Bloodcrushers this way, and it works fine.  They’re heavy as hell, but have a low center of gravity.  My Bloodthirsters… not so much.  Those enormous metal wings.  Ugh. This wouldn’t work for them, so I have to store and transport them in foam, too.

I’m also not sure that I’d transport Warjacks or Warbeasts this way.  Privateer Press infantry, for sure, but not sure if I’d feel safe doing it with the big hunks of metal with the weedy legs.

If something goes wrong, this doesn’t do much for you.  It’s cheaper, and takes up less space, yes, but it doesn’t protect your models as well as foam if you get in a car accident or fall down the stairs.  Foam will only do so much, but this does less.

I also have to provide the disclaimer that I’m currently eyeballing Battlefoam.  This system does just fine for me, but it completely fails my Soul Grinders.  I can’t store them in drawers, so I keep them in foam.  They’re so large, though, that they don’t fit well in the foam at all.  I’ve had a number of accidents with them, and I’m disinclined to glue them back together ever again, so it’s my hope Battlefoam will fix that.  And, if I’m putting some of my daemons in a Battlefoam case, I might as well put all of them in.  I won’t be moving all of my minis to foam, though, that’s for sure.

Blogger and Picasa

Last week, I was chatting with Bill and Jay (those guys) about stuff, and the issues Bill had a few months back with getting images to show up in the From the Warp Blogrolls came up.  (I’d post a link to it, but damned if I can find it.  Hook a brother up, Bill?)  From that conversation, I learned that not everyone knows how uploading images to Blogger works.  I thought I’d explain it.

What’s Going On

When you upload an image into Blogger (using the Insert Image button at the top of the post window), “Blogger” isn’t actually hosting the image: it’s Picasa Web Albums.  Blogger automagically creates an album for each Blogger blog you create in your Picasa Web Album account and, when you upload an image through Blogger, it stores your image in that web album.

You can see here that I’ve got three albums in Picasa: one for uploaded Blogger Pictures (these are the user icons that show up in blogger, in the About me section of you blog, the Followers tool and any Blogger comments), one for pictures uploaded to this blog (Warpstone Pile), and one for the test template I created to try out the new look I went to back in March).  Of those three, only one (the Warpstone Pile one) is actually public.

What This Means

Depending on what you want to do, it could mean nothing.  Upload your pictures through Blogger, blog away, live your life.  It doesn’t matter where the images are hosted, so long as they’re hosted, right?

Well, at some level, it’s probably useful to know that there’s a cap on how much you can post to Picasa without having to upgrade your account (an undertaking that involves money).  This isn’t any different than any other image hosting service, though, and the likelihood of hitting that cap is extremely low.

I’ve been uploading kind of a lot of large pictures for over a year, now, and I’m only at ~50MB out of 1GB.  But, hey, knowledge is power.

Speaking of power, if you know that you can find your images in Picasa, then you can get to them and use them.

If you’re into Google Buzz (I’m not exactly; my posts here spam my friends, but I don’t actively do much with it), you can configure your Picasa account to post activity to Buzz.  That means your friends will automatically get notified and see pictures you take and post of your minis.

More significantly, though, you can label your images.  I get a lot of mileage out of this.  Although I generally don’t bother labeling throwaway images (like the ones in this post), I label all of my mini pictures: system, army, status (“WIP” or “Final”), content.  So, a photo of some Bloodletters gets labeled: “‘Warhammer 40K’ ‘Khornate Daemons’ Bloodletter Final”.

This in and of itself isn’t incredibly useful… until you start leveraging those labels.  Take a moment to click on the “Khornate Daemons” link on the right side of the page.  (Or the link I just inserted.)  The link is to a search  against that web album.  I don’t have to manually maintain sorted albums (as I did with my old, self-hosted, gallery service): anything with the labels “Final” and “Khornate Daemons” will show up in those results.

If you’re technically inclined, working out how to build these URLs is pretty obvious.  If you’re not… that’s okay; I’m here to help.

The URL of the Khornate Daemon link is:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/view?uname=rushputin&tags=Final+%22Khornate%20Daemons%22#

The %22 thing might throw you off: those are really HTML encoded stand-ins for double quotes.  They’re necessary because I an ass and like to put spaces in my labels; the quotes tell Picasa that “Khornate Daemons” is one label and not two labels (“Khornate” and “Daemons”).  I could just as easily have called the Label Khornate_Daemons, which would make the URL a more legible:

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/view?uname=rushputin&tags=Final+Khornate_Daemons#

If I wanted to just show Khornate_Daemon images, but didn’t care about whether or not they were of finished models(“Final”), I could omit the Final part, which would make the URL:

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/view?uname=rushputin&tags=Khornate_Daemons#

So, to build your own URL, just replace “rushputin” with your blogger/Picasa username and replace the tags I’m using (“Khornate_Daemons” in the above example) with whatever tags you want to filter down on, delimited by plus signs (“+”).

I’m using this with a couple of my army links (Skaven, Daemons, Harad), but not all of them: at some point, I’ll move a bunch of images from where I’d been hosting them before to Picasa, label them, and then I’ll swap the old links for new filter URLs.

I’ve met with limited success interacting with the Blogger-generated web albums via the downloadable Picasa client.  It seems to generate a second copy of the album for the client to interact with, rather than the blogger web album, which isn’t particularly helpful.  I haven’t worked very hard with it, however, so it’s entirely likely there’s something I’ve missed.

I really hope this helps someone!

Bloodless Bloodletter Painting How-To

“Tutorial” is a bit strong, so let’s keep it at “How-To.” This thing is really for my own reference than anything else.  Y’all just get to watch the sausage (BLOOD SAUSAGE) be made.


First off, I prime and basecoat.  I prime with Duplicolor Dark Grey Sandable Primer.  Then, I breakout the airbrush and basecoat most of the model with Dheneb Stone.  Now that I think about it, if I were smart, I’d just basecoat the thing white.  (That had never occurred to me before today.)

I wash the whole thing heavily with Ogryn Flesh.

I’ve been convinced to use the drybrush approach, rather than the blocking approach.  I think the blocked approach is better, but the drybrush approach is so very close to being as good and takes a tenth of the time.

So, anyway, I drybrush the bejesus out of the model.

Now, I wash the model with a dark blue wash: 1:1:2 mix of Devlan Mud, Asurmen Blue and water.  It’s at this point that I’ve lost all hope.  The model looks like unsalvageable dogshit.

Highlight time!  I use Dheneb Stone to apply XTREME highlighting around.  Suddenly, the model looks a lot less horrible.

The time-consuming part is now done.  From here out, it’s just a few details and I’m done.  I throw down some Bestial Brown where I’m going to do brass.  Then a do some Red Gore in the eyes and Shadow Grey on the tongue.

The brass areas get Shining Gold and Burnished Gold extreme highlights.  The tongue gets a 1:1 wash of Leviathan Purple and water.  The eyes get Blood Red with dots of White.

The tongue gets a highlight that’s 1:1 Ice Blue and Shadow Grey.  The brass gets a straightup Devlan Mud wash.

Things that should be black get black.  I save this stage until after I’m done with the brass because of the washing involved.  Blade, horns, claws and base.  I do the teeth, too, but forgot to do them before taking the picture.

Finally, the black gets highlighted with Coal Black.  I’ve also gloss-varnished the sides of the base because I’ve run into a lot of problems with chipping there.  I glue washers to my bases (because I like the weight and I transport my minis in magnetic drawers), and the black paint has trouble sticking around..

If I were doing squad markings on this guy (I’m not: he’s taking the place of the Fury of Khorne model in the unmarked squad for when… I don’t need a Fury of Khorne model in the the unmarked squad).  I’d throw down a Scab Red base, followed by Blood Red and highlights with Fiery Orange.  Then wash the area with Baal Red wash.

In summary:

Flesh
– Dheneb Stone base
– Ogryn Flesh wash
– Dheneb Stone drybrush
– 1:1:2 Asurmen Blue / Devlan Mud / water wash
– Dheneb Stone extreme highlights

Tongue
– Shadow Grey
– 1:1 Leviathan Purple / water wash
– 1:1 Shadow Grey / Ice Blue highlight

Brass
– Bestial Brown base
– Shining Gold
– Burnished Gold extreme highlights
– Devlan Mud wash

Eyes
– Red Gore base
– Blood Red
– Morrow White highlights

Black
– Thamar Black base
– Coal Black highlights

Blood
– Scab Red base
– Blood Red highlights
– Fiery Orange highlights
– Baal Red wash

Hair (For Flesh Hounds)
– Thamar Black base
– Shadow Grey drybrush
– Space Wolf Grey drybrush